Hotpot heir stirs century-long legacy with modern fire

Atop a mall in Liangjiang New Area, Chongqing, Tan Xu's hotpot restaurant fills its elegant space with the spicy aroma of his daily hand-stirred soup base. As the fourth-generation heir of a family-owned hotpot business, Tan carries forward this century-long legacy, from batch to batch.

Tan Xu's hotpot restaurant in Liangjiang New Area. [Photo provided to english.liangjiang.gov.cn]

The tradition began in 1918 with Tan's great-grandfather, a dockworker on the Yangtze River in Yongchuan district, who boiled cheap offal with simple seasonings to fuel his grueling labor. He shared portions with fellow workers to help with their food expenses.

The legacy deepened when Tan's grandfather, a chef, refined the recipe and sold it along the riverbank. Its rich flavors won over laborers and residents, leading to a brick-and-mortar shop in the 1960s. This foundation enabled Tan Xu’s modern success. Nine years ago, he launched his first restaurant in downtown Chongqing, which has since become a popular chain.

"Hotpot is indispensable for Chongqing locals," Tan says, highlighting its dual role as not only dispelling chill and dampness but also serving as a social glue. "Hotpot is an inclusive cuisine and a top choice for gatherings, as everyone finds their favorite in the pot," he adds.

A batch of broth demands four hours of constant, heavy stirring in the kitchen. [Photo provided to english.liangjiang.gov.cn]

Tan took up the ladle after high school to make a living. He was reluctant, considering that stir-frying the soup base is arduous, with a single batch demanding four hours of constant, heavy stirring in the kitchen.

"Chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, fermented beans... Everything is handpicked," Tan says. "This hasn't changed for decades. Alter it, and you lose our signature flavor." Humidity and temperature also affect the process, with masters having to observe, sniff, and tweak in real-time. 

Tan said a perfect soup is visually appealing, aromatic, and delicious, and as it simmers, different layers of flavors emerge. That is the soul of Chongqing hotpot, impossible to replicate by machines. 

His reluctance turned into passion in time, fueled by customer devotion. Most customers in his restaurant are regulars. One man in his fifties unfailingly books two tables for his birthday banquet every year. Staff members sing "Happy Birthday" and serve longevity noodles.

In Tan's view, he wins customers with his unwavering principle of hand-stirring broth and innovating elsewhere to optimize customer experience. 

He sources ingredients from as far as Hulunbuir, a city more than 3,000 kilometers away from Chongqing, via cold-chain logistics for peak freshness. Dining spaces are tailored for special occasions, such as birthdays and anniversaries. This heritage brand also maintains a presence on youth-focused social media. 

All of these reflect Tan's efforts to sustain a legacy. His 10-year-old son watches elders work in the kitchen, mirroring Tan's own childhood. He says his son will likely inherit the family business, yet his view of inheritance is open and pragmatic. 

He mentors ambitious young apprentices as future partners, teaching both broth craft and management. This year, he closed three large outlets to open smaller, youth-targeted shops with these apprentices, adapting to market shifts. 

Tan travels globally for inspiration. The story of sushi master Jiro Ono moved him deeply: "A family persists with handmade craft for decades, dedicating a lifetime to perfecting one thing. That's the artisan spirit I embody here."

Having now stirred the soup base for more than 20 years, Tan says, "I'll probably be doing this for life."